Spring Cleaning for the Skin

By Patricia Heitz

Now that spring is just around the corner, repairing winter-weathered skin is a great time to promote Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) facial skin treatments in the student clinic. In our Basics in Esthetics Education Series through The Career Institute, this is the subject of Module 6. This hands-on workshop for instructors allows for better understanding, from the instructor’s perspective, of this lucrative area in the salon.

Skin Peels The word “peel” can be scary to students and clients alike. In the esthetic model, the skin doesn’t actually peel. These peels are much more mild and controlled than those used in physicians settings. Most people are aware of the term and understand there are anti-aging benefits to the procedure. There are various levels of peels used on the skin to cause the skin to repair itself. These peels range from enzyme exfoliation to medical, invasive Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) peels. The esthetician’s product, however, will exfoliate only the top layers of the epidermis. Because the product does not go much deeper than base stratum corneum (depending on strength and ph), treatments must be done in a series of 6 – 8 weekly treatments in order to achieve desired results.

Physicians may use deeper level peels and achieve the same result after one or two treatments. A guide for instructors follows.

ALPHA HYDROXY ACID TREATMENT GUIDE

Alpha hydroxy acids are a family of naturally occurring acids that have multiple uses in cosmetic and esthetic treatment of the skin.

There are several basic Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) used in skin care:

GLYCOLIC ACID - derived from the sugar cane plant

MALIC ACID - derived from apples

TARTARIC ACID - derived from turned wine

LACTIC ACID - derived from milk (best from yogurt)

CITRIC ACID - derived from citrus fruit

A commonly used BETA-HYDROXY acid is SALICYLIC ACID.

These acids differ in molecular size, and the chemical difference between an alpha and beta hydroxy acid is the location of the hydroxyl group on the carbon chain of the acid.

HOW AHAs and BHAs FUNCTION

Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids work by removing dead cells from the surface of the skin. AHAs dissolve the intercellular “glue” or “cement” that is the fluid between the cells, while BHAs remove the actual top layer of skin cells.

In addition, AHAs help to loosen clogged pores and comedones, remove pigmented cells (which smooth and resurface the corneum), and even the skin texture. AHAs help the skin to continually exfoliate, preventing the buildup of cells that cause clogged pores to develop. This process functions as a preventive agent for clogged, oily and acne-prone skin.

Removing the dehydrated, dead surface cells of the corneum helps the appearance of the skin in several ways:

1. Because surface cells accumulate unevenly, surface exfoliation helps eliminate the “hills and valleys” of the dead cell buildup, making skin look much smoother. Dead cells also accumulate around the edges of wrinkles. Removing the cell buildup “smoothes” the wrinkles.

2. Cell build up occurs in the follicles (pores) as well as on the surface of the skin. AHAs help loosen these accumulations and clogged pores, which aid in the prevention of build up that can begin comedo (pimple) development. This indirectly helps prevent acne lesions, which often begin as comedones.

3. Surface hyperpigmented cells are removed, helping to even skin color and reduce dark splotches. Combined with a melanin suppressant, such as hydroquinone or kojic acid, uneven skin is improved. The use of a broad spectrum sunscreen or block (minimum SPF-15), is imperative in helping to reduce hyperpigmentation, as sun exposure is the number one cause of pigment disorders.

4. The removal of the excess dead corneum cells helps to promote epidermal cell turnover, improving moisture content in the skin by promoting the development of the interstitial fluid of the epidermis. This fluid consists largely of lipids produced by the skin during the cell turnover process. These lipids help to dramatically improve the hydration of the epidermis.

5. Sun-damaged skin is indicated by rough, leathery, thick, dehydrated skin that is often discolored, or is extremely uneven. Routine use of AHA products results in a much smoother, softer skin appearance, with less discoloration and more even tone.

6. Professional exfoliation treatments in the salon will improve and accelerate results of home care treatments.

EFFECTIVENESS OF AHA PRODUCTS

The effectiveness of AHA products depends on many factors:

1. The pH of the product should be 3.0, as anything lower may significantly increase irritation. A product of 3.0 to 4.0 pH in the correct concentration can provide optimal results with minimal or no irritation.

2. For best results, the concentration of AHAs for professional use should be about 30%. This has been established as a safe percentage for cosmetic use. For home care, the percentage should be 8-10%.

3. Other active ingredients in the product and the vehicle of the product, Aloe Vera, for example, serve as soothing agents when mixed with AHAs. Gel bases, in general, are the best for AHAs.

4. Treatment creams are often used after the AHA product. These products show better, visible results when used with an AHA. This is due, in part, to better skin absorption of the treatment cream after the skin has been exfoliated.

DO NOT USE AHA WHEN THE FOLLOWING CONDITIONS EXIST:

• Sensitive skin
• Current or recent completion of Accutane therapy
• Current use of Retin-A or Renova
• Allergy to AHAs, BHAs or other ingredients used in formulation
• Broken skin, cuts or abrasions
• Sunburned skin or recent direct sun exposure
• Expected deliberate exposure of skin to the sun
• Irritated skin, eczema, or any other skin irritation
• Use of other topical prescription medications (check with client’s physician)
• Pregnancy or nursing

With an understanding of these extremely beneficial treatments, students will feel comfortable promoting them to clients and be one step closer to being salon-ready.